The
basic escabeche
sauce that I learned to cook is very easy to make. This is the
version from Carmen Aboy Valldejuli's Puerto
Rican Cookery (a staple cookbook in our house). I usually use a
small saucepan or, if you have a small/mid-sized Dutch oven, that
would work too.
Your
ingredients are as follows:
2 cups
of olive oil
1 cup
of vinegar
12
whole black peppercorns (or more)
½
teaspoon of salt
2 bay
leaves
1 ½
pounds of onions, peeled and sliced*
*onions
vary in sizes so this will be approximately 4-5 medium sized yellow
or white onions, or about 3 cups of slices. I usually do a thin
slice, about an eighth of an inch.
Add all
the ingredients to the pot, and cook over a low heat for one hour.
Let it
cool and add enough to cover the bottom of a deep, glass or porcelain
dish. You may use it as is, or add fish, chiles, chicken, or
vegetables to it – alternating sauce and the added (cooked)
ingredient.
Over
the years, we have tweaked the recipe and instead of regular table
salt, we have played with Kosher and sea salts. You can also lower the salt and add pimento stuffed salad olives, or little capers. We've added sliced
garlic. More pepper! We've also added peppers, and chiles, and
paprika.
It begins and ends with the dynamic duo that is oil and vinegar: that is the balance you need to protect to make this sauce work for you. Too oily will be repugnant, and too vinegary will be inedible.
I have
also sauteed the garlic and bay leaf in olive oil, over medium-high
heat, remove from heat and add the other ingredients (and you can use
extra virgin olive oil as well as any variety of vinegar you wish).
It's just as tasty, and it retains a playful tanginess without the
effort.
If you
want to get fancy, you can use shallots.
It is
important that you use glass or porcelain because it's a non-reactive
surface. Plastics will absorb the smell and taste – and some people
find that bothersome. My grandmother had a big glass jar she used for
this purpose, but I have not seen one of those since I was a kid.
Whatever
you choose to put in the escabeche
needs to be cooked separately and marinaded in the sauce overnight,
then served cold or at room temperature.
Also,
if you are not afraid of such things, you can sop up with bread and
it goes well with a good, dry white wine or beer.
Tomorrow,
I'll tell you about fish and veggie variations.
UPDATE: If you enjoyed this article and the recipes in it, you can link to its companion piece, a dedicated Pinterest board you can refer to any time.
UPDATE: If you enjoyed this article and the recipes in it, you can link to its companion piece, a dedicated Pinterest board you can refer to any time.
No comments:
Post a Comment